We left Darwin on a misty morning.
At 10 am on a Wednesday in February the Ghan pulled out of Darwin in Australia's tropical north and two days later it arrived in Adelaide, the capital of the state of South Australia, a distance of 2979 kilometres. It was a pleasure to journey on one of Australia’s iconic trains.
Afghan camel driver at Alice Springs Railway Station. John McDouell Stuart statue in Adelaide.
The Ghan is named for the 19th century Afghan camel drivers who came to Australia when camels were found to be a good way to explore the outback. Railway construction started in 1878 but it was not until 1929 that the Ghan provided service from Adelaide to Alice Springs. Finally in 2004, the line was extended to Darwin.
Scottish born explorer John McDouell Stuart led the first expedition to cross Australia from south to north, a feat achieved in 1862 after several attempts. Today the Ghan and the Stuart Highway follow his route fairly closely and statues of him are found in several Australian cities.
Passing this way before - on a 1973 bus tour. Thanks to P. & M. Schupbach of Switzerland for the group photo.
I had travelled from Brisbane to Darwin, Alice Springs and Adelaide on a bus camping tour in 1973 and across Australia from east to west on the Indian Pacific train in 1974. It was time to see the desert again and to experience the Ghan.
Including two locomotives the average Ghan train is 774 metres in length and has 30 carriages – ours had 37 carriages and ran to 877 metres. Due to recent heavy rains the desert was green, not a common sight, and the terrain varied as we progressed south.
Not far from Darwin on the first day.
Approaching Alice Springs the morning of the second day.
South of Alice Springs on the afternoon of the second day heading for Adelaide.
Like a cruise ship, the Ghan provides meals and beds on board and day excursions along the way. On the first day I chose the Nitmiluk Gorge Cruise on the Katherine River. Due to the flooded condition of the river, the regular cruise boat did not have sufficient power to move upstream and instead we were treated to a short jet boat trip. As warned, we got wet. On the more sedate boat trip in 1973 there had been more opportunity to appreciate the beauty of the park.
Meals served in Queen Adelaide dining car gave a chance to meet other passengers. Cosy cabin for one was later made into a bedroom.
Nitmiluk National Park staff prepare jet boat for thrilling ride on swollen Katherine River.
On the morning of the second day we arrived in Alice Springs where I chose an excursion with a cultural/historical focus. A bus dropped our group at a point where we could walk to the Royal Flying Doctor Service Base, the National Pioneer Women’s Hall of Fame and the Reptile Centre. I visited the first two but did not have time for the third. Our next stop was the historic Alice Springs Telegraph Station (1872) the best preserved of the 12 stations on the Overland Telegraph Line. I remember seeing it and the Alice Spring on the 1973 trip. Our final stop was the Anzac Hill viewpoint to see the town spread before us.
Spring that gives Alice Springs its name and one of the Overland Telegraph Station buildings.
Town of Alice Springs from Anzac Hill viewpoint.
After leaving Alice Springs one more special experience awaited us. That night about 10:30 the train stopped at Manguri siding, out in the middle of the desert. Here the practice had developed of a bonfire and truck headlights signalling the train to stop for someone from the opal mining town of Coober Pedy, 47 kilometres distant, a place I also visited in 1973. Now the tradition is maintained for the passengers to get out and see the night sky. We were warned not to go wandering as snakes might be encountered and we were checked off and back onto the train so no one was left behind. Picnic tables had been set up and drinks and chocolates were served. A telescope gave us views of the nearly full moon. A brief but magical event.
Lanterns and a bonfire mark the Manguri stop where passengers experience the desert night sky. The Manguri temperature reached 46 degrees Celsius that day and was on its way down to an overnight low of 30.